The word is easy to confuse with "sommelier." But instead of fine wines, the semelier is dedicated to another gourmet treat. Members of this new profession help their guests select the right salt for their meals. Upscale and trendy restaurants in particular are increasingly placing their trust in the competence of a semelier, hoping to gain an advantage in the highly competitive gourmet segment. And the reason they are pleased to engage a semelier's services: Salt has attained a new prominence in gourmet cooking and regained some of its former importance. Exotic and little-known varieties of salt are sprinkled on dishes to bring out a special flavor note. Some types of salt are quite pricey – one of the most expensive is fleur de sel, which is harvested and processed by hand. The time and effort that goes into this process is reflected in its price of up to 80 euros per kilo. In practice, however, most diners do not have enough experience to select the right type of salt for their food. This is where the semelier comes in, narrowing down the selection and discussing the different flavor options with the guest. Because salt is not just salt.
Variety in the salt shaker
Although most of us are familiar with fine-grained, pure white table salt, this is only one of the many forms salt can take. There are numerous types of salt around the world, differing significantly in their quality and origins. Usually salt is mined underground as rock salt. One of the oldest and most popular forms, even today, is sea salt, which is produced in salt works. Here the sea water is evaporated, leaving behind large salt crystals that can then be harvested by hand or mechanically. A similar principle is used in salt ponds, where salt is produced from brine. In South America and western Africa, the seasoning is obtained through leaching, which today is also used in Thailand and New Guinea. In this process, it is purified and then filtered and boiled down.
The mineral can be refined using a variety of techniques. In Hawaii, salt is mixed with activated charcoal or red clay, giving it a striking color and distinctive flavor. Herbal salt is also well known and highly popular. Smoked salt has its origins in an old Scandinavian practice in which sea salt was poured over a burning fire. This caused the water to evaporate and gave the seasoning a smoky flavor. Today people also enjoy flavored salts. Whether celery salt, truffle salt or vanilla salt – there are no limits to the imagination.
White gold
The high value placed on salt is in no way new. The ancient Egyptians, Sumerians and Babylonians prized salt as a seasoning and a preservative. In those days, the treasured mineral was valued as highly as precious materials such as gold. This is also evidenced by the "salarium" that Roman soldiers were paid for their services. Since salt is not available in equal measure in all parts of the world, trade in the "white gold" flourished. Trade routes such as the ancient Via Salaria, which led from northern Italy to the Adriatic Sea, were used to transport the valuable seasoning inland from the coast and brought riches and prosperity to the bordering cities. These towns were often named for the white mineral: "Salz," the German word for salt, gave Salzburg and Salzgitter their names; and place names containing "Hall," Celtic for salt, also point to a flourishing salt trade. Many stories and legends attest to the important position that salt occupied over the millennia. In Greek mythology, when one of the Nereid sea nymphs married Peleus, she gave him salt as a wedding present. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Brothers Grimm depicted salt's value in their fairytale "Princess Mouse Skin." It was not until the age of industrialization that salt became an everyday commodity. New methods made it possible to discover underground salt deposits more easily and to industrialize salt mining. This made it affordable to the general public, and salt consumption rose steadily.
The right amount
"Man can live without gold, but not without salt." These words of the Roman writer Cassiodorus underscore the role that salt plays for our health. It facilitates the transport of water in our bodies and provides it with important nutrients. When our salt intake is too low, it can lead to a decline in our short-term memory and ability to concentrate. Today, however, enough of this important flavor enhancer is found in our food. Experts estimate that 85 percent of the salt we consume enters our bodies in convenience foods or other dishes that contain salt. For this reason, we often exceed the recommended daily value of six grams. Increased salt consumption is often connected to high blood pressure; people being treated for hypertension are often told to cut down on salt. In the gourmet segment, however, interest in up-market salts is growing – marking a comeback for the seasoning.
Exotic Salts
Fleur de sel, the "flower of salt," is a sea salt that is traditionally produced in France, Spain and Portugal. In salt works, small salt "flowers" form a thin layer on the surface of the water on hot, windless days and are harvested by hand. It is rich in magnesium and calcium and is said to be the most expensive sea salt.
Sel gris, "grey salt," forms – in contrast to fleur de sel – in large amounts on the bottom of a seawater basin. It is said to have a mineral flavor because as the crystals form, suspended particles and earth and clay deposits are trapped. This coarse salt is suitable for salting cooking water, for example.
Red Hawaiian salt is produced on the island of Molokai using a modern, patented method. The sea salt receives a special color from the red alaea clay that it is mixed with. It is suitable for seasoning meat and fish as well as dark chocolate and certain types of cheese.
Black Hawaiian salt is sea salt to which activated charcoal has been added. This gives it its black color and enriches it with minerals and trace elements. Its smoky flavor makes it especially suitable for meat dishes.
Maldon salt comes from Maldon Bay in the English county of Essex. Sea salt has been produced here since 1882 by boiling sea water in small amounts. The salt crystals have a pyramid-like structure that gives the salt a particularly crisp texture.
Himalayan salt is a type of rock salt and is largely mined in Pakistan. It owes its pale pink color to iron oxide. Since it consists of up to 97 percent normal sodium chloride, its taste is barely distinguishable from that of everyday table salt. Although health benefits have been attributed to this salt, none have ever been proven.
Peruvian mountain spring salt, also known as Inca salt, comes from the Macho Picchu region. The structure of its crystals is similar to that of fleur de sel. And no wonder – it is produced in terraced salt ponds in accordance with a 2000-year-old tradition, which means it forms under similar conditions. Its mild flavor makes it a good match for fish dishes, soups or cold foods.